Parsnips in Peak Season: Seasonal Fare with a Flare

Victoria Hicks

by Victoria Hicks

Europeans brought the parsnip to the United States in the early 1600s and cookbook author Fanny Farmer was less than charmed by them, writing in 1906, “Parsnips are raised mostly as cattle food.”

Why the parsnip is so maligned is hard to understand, as this root vegetable—which resembles a creamy colored carrot—is sweetish in flavor and extremely good boiled, baked, or pureed and mixed with butter and a little Madeira. Parsnips can also play a starring role in soups, stews, and boiled dinners, or you can roast them in a hot oven either alone or with other root vegetables.

Like other root vegetables, the common parsnip can survive difficult growing conditions and stores well throughout the winter. Its peak season is fall and winter. Parsnips require frost to convert their starch to sugar and develop their pleasantly sweet flavor. This natural sweetness makes them popular with children.

Try to buy loose parsnips so you can select even-sized roots with no blemishes or rot. Purchase those that are small to medium, as the large ones can be woody in the center. They should smell fresh and sweet and feel firm. Avoid limp, shriveled, or spotted parsnips. Rinse them well before using, then trim the crown and peel away the skin. You can refrigerate parsnips in a plastic bag for up to 2 weeks.

Parsnips provide plenty of fiber and contain vitamins B6, B2 (riboflavin), B1 (thiamin), and C, as well as potassium, iron, calcium, and zinc. They are also a good source of folate and energy-boosting starchy carbohydrates. One large parsnip, peeled and boiled, is about 50 calories.

Roasted Root Vegetables

This lush vegetable medley of sweet winter roots makes a satisfying one-dish meal. No strict rules govern the recipe; just keep color variety in mind and use whatever combination appeals, allowing about 1 pound of mixed vegetables per person if they are to be served as a main course.

Choose from among the following root vegetables:

Beets, peeled and sliced
Carrots, peeled and thickly sliced
Celery root, peeled and sliced
Fennel, trimmed and sliced
Garlic cloves, peeled and left whole
Yellow onions, peeled and cut into wedges
Parsnips, peeled and thickly sliced
Potatoes, cut into wedges
Rutabagas, peeled and sliced
Shallots, peeled and separated into sections
Sweet Potatoes, cut into wedges
Turnips, peeled and sliced
Winter squash, peeled, seeded, and sliced

Olive oil
Balsamic vinegar
Salt, freshly ground pepper, dried herbs such as summer savory or thyme

Preheat the oven to 425° F. Lightly grease a baking dish or cookie sheet large enough to hold the prepared vegetables without crowding. Toss the vegetables with a little olive oil and balsamic vinegar and season to taste (use about 2 teaspoons of oil and 1 teaspoon of vinegar for each pound of vegetables). Place the dish in the oven and roast for about 45 minutes, turning the vegetables occasionally, until they are tender and browned.

Chicken and Parsnip Salad With Roasted Shallot Dressing
4 to 6 servings

3/4 pound parsnips
1 pound boiling or all-purpose potatoes, such as Yukon Gold
3 small shallots (unpeeled)
1/4 cup plus 1 tablespoon olive oil, plus more for roasting
Salt and freshly ground black pepper
Meat from 1 roasted chicken or scraps of leftover chicken, torn into bite-size pieces
2 Tbs. red-wine vinegar
1 tsp. Dijon mustard
1 Tbs. chopped mixed herbs, such as parsley, tarragon, thyme and chervil
1 bunch lettuce, cored and torn into pieces
1 handful arugula

Preheat oven to 400 degrees. Peel parsnips and quarter lengthwise, cutting out core. Cut parsnips into pieces about size of long French fries. Place in a bowl. Cut unpeeled potatoes into 1-inch chunks, and add to bowl. Add shallots and enough olive oil to coat (about 1 table spoon) and sprinkle generously with salt and pepper.

Spread on a baking sheet and roast until soft, about 35 minutes, turning once midway through roasting. Be careful not to overcook, removing shallots when very soft and smaller pieces of parsnip as soon as they are browned and tender. Set shallots aside. Combine parsnips, potatoes and chicken in a bowl.

Peel shallots and chop very finely. Transfer to a bowl and combine with ¼ cup plus 1 tablespoon olive oil, vinegar, mustard and herbs. Season with salt and pepper to taste.

Toss chicken and parsnip mixture with about half the dressing. Toss lettuce and arugula with remaining dressing. Arrange greens on plates with chicken mixture on top and serve.

—Adapted from The New York Times, September 20, 2006

Parsnip Chowder
6 servings

1/4 lb salt pork
5 parsnips, washed, peeled, and sliced
3 cups diced potatoes (about 5 medium)
1 cup sliced celery
3 large onions, thinly sliced
2 quarts boiling water
Salt and pepper to taste
2 tsp. minced fresh parsley
1 pint milk
1 Tbs. butter

Dice salt pork; fry until crisp and brown in a soup kettle. Drain off fat and add the parsnips, potatoes, celery, 3 large onions, and boiling water. Cover and gently boil for 40 minutes. Season with salt, pepper, and parsley. Boil 15 minutes longer; add milk and butter. Serve hot with cornbread or crisp crackers.

—Recipe courtesy of Co-op employee Penny Ashey

Mashed Sweet Potatoes and Parsnips
6 servings

3 medium sweet potatoes, peeled and cut into 1/2-inch pieces
6 parsnips, peeled and sliced 1/4 inch thick
1/4 cup Kentucky bourbon whiskey (optional)
1/2 cup pecans, chopped
2 Tbs. brown sugar
6 Tbs. butter
1/4 tsp. grated cinnamon
1/4 tsp. grated nutmeg
salt and pepper

Bring a large saucepan of salted water to a boil. Add potatoes and parsnips, and boil gently until tender, about 12 minutes. Drain well.

Preheat the oven to 350°F. Mash the hot potatoes and parsnips with 4 Tbs. butter. Stir in bourbon, cinnamon, nutmeg, salt and pepper to taste. Transfer the mixture to a 2-quart gratin or other baking dish. Sprinkle with pecans and brown sugar and dot with remaining butter. Bake until heated through and lightly browned, for 20-25 minutes.

—Victoria Hicks

Potato Gratin with Parsnip and Rutabaga
A luxurious potato dish, if there ever was one. Potato gratin is a good side order with almost all meat, poultry and game dishes. The addition of rutabaga and parsnips (and possibly some sweet potato) provides sweetness and flavor.

If you do not have the time for this slow cooking method, you can bake the gratin on a higher temperature, say 350°F all the way, and use your fork to test for doneness.

Serves 6

2 1/2 lbs. potatoes, different varieties, cut into 1/3-inch slices
1 lb. parsnips, cut into ¼-inch slices
1 lb. rutabaga or sweet potato, cut into 1/4-inch slices
2 bay leaves, cut in four pieces
2-3 cloves garlic, cut in two lengthwise
1/2 tsp. freshly ground nutmeg
1 cup heavy cream
2 cups whole milk
1/2 lb. grated Jarlsberg cheese
Salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste

Preheat oven to 300°F. Place the potatoes, parsnip, and rutabaga into an ovenproof dish, alternating the vegetables. Place the garlic and bay leaves in between.

In a bowl, combine milk and cream. Season with nutmeg and salt and pepper to taste. Mix in half the cheese and pour the mixture over the potatoes.

Bake in the oven for 1 hour. Sprinkle with the rest of the cheese, turn the heat up to 350°, and bake for 15-20 more minutes, until the cheese is nice and brown.

—Adapted from New Scandinavian Cooking by Andreas Viestad

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