added 03/07/08
For several years in the 1980s, I lived in Greece, both in Athens and on Mykonos, an Aegean island in the Cyclades chain. Staying with a Greek family, I lived as the locals do and became familiar with their customs. One of my favorite memories is Holy Week, leading up to Greek Easter.
Of the twelve legal Greek holidays, Greeks hold Easter to be the most important, followed by Christmas. Greek Easter does not always coincide with Easter as celebrated in other countries;. this year, it falls on May 1st.
The meal following Easter Saturdays Midnight Mass traditionally includes mayeritsa, a soup made from the intestines of the lamb that will be roasted during the day. On Easter Sunday, men light fires in roasting pits to cook lambs that have been rubbed with oregano and mint and firmly secured on large spits. At the table, the succulent lambcrisp and dark on the outside and tender pink withinis accompanied by creamy Feta cheese, spring vegetables, golden pastries made of phyllo leaves filled with rich custards and herbed wild greens, crusty Easter bread, buttery cookies, and honeyed sweets. Friends and families gather to eat, drink, talk, and dance, and the atmosphere becomes a festival that lasts well into the evening.
The following recipes are some that a fortunate Easter visitor to Greece might enjoy. Kaló Páska !
Victoria Hicks
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Menu:
Tzatziki (Cucumber Salad)
Patates Riganates (Roasted Potatoes with Garlic, Lemon, and Oregano)
Arni Sti Ladokola or Arni Kleftiko (Lamb Roasted In Paper)
Spanakopita (Spinach and Cheese Rolls)
Stuffed Tomatoes with Rice
Red and White Wine, if desired
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Tzatziki (Cucumber Salad)
Serves 4
2 cups Greek yogurt or 3-1/3 cups plain whole milk yogurt, drained (see Note
below)
1 large cucumber, peeled, seeded, diced fine, or grated, and squeezed dry
3 Tbs. lemon juice, or to taste
4 garlic cloves, minced, or to taste
Salt and freshly ground black pepper, to taste
1/4 cup olive oil
3 Tbs. chopped fresh dill
Combine the yogurt, cucumber, lemon juice, garlic, salt, and pepper. Add the olive oil in a stream, whisking until the mixture is well combined. Stir in the dill. Chill the salad, covered, for at least 2 hours to blend the flavors. Transfer to a serving bowl. Serve with crusty bread or toasted pita bread.
Note: To drain yogurt, line a large sieve with a piece of cheesecloth that has been rinsed and squeezed dry. Place over a bowl, spoon in the whole milk yogurt, and refrigerate. Allow excess liquid to drain for at least two hours or overnight. Makes 2 cups.
Victoria Hicks
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Patates Riganates (Roasted Potatoes with Garlic, Lemon, and Oregano)
Makes 4 to 6 servings
3 lbs. baking potatoes, peeled and cut into 1-1/2-inch cubes
1/2 cup olive oil
4 garlic cloves, minced
1-1/2 tsp. dried oregano, crumbled
1 tsp. salt
Freshly ground black pepper, to taste
1/2 cup beef or chicken stock
1/3 cup freshly squeezed lemon juice
2-3 Tbs. chopped fresh oregano
Preheat oven to 400°F.
Place the potatoes in a single layer in a 13- x 9-inch baking dish and pour the oil over them. Add the garlic, dried oregano, salt, and pepper and toss well to coat with the seasonings. Bake for 15 minutes. Add the stock, toss, and bake for 10 minutes. Add the lemon juice, toss, and bake for 10 to 15 minutes, or until the potatoes are cooked through. If you like, preheat the broiler and broil the potatoes for 2-3 minutes, or until golden brown. Sprinkle with the fresh oregano and serve.
Adapted from The Foods of the Greek Islands by Aglaia Kremezi
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Arni Sti Ladokola or Arni Kleftiko (Lamb Roasted In Paper)
Lamb is marinated overnight and then wrapped tightly in parchment paper, sealing the juices and herbs together. A wonderful special occasion meal, it is also good cold, sliced on a platter for a picnic.
1 medium boneless leg of lamb
Garlic cloves, to taste, optional
Salt and freshly ground black pepper, to taste
2 Tbs. chopped parsley
1 tsp. dried oregano or 1 Tbs. chopped fresh oregano
1/2 tsp. cumin
2 Tbs. fresh rosemary, chopped
5 Tbs. olive oil
Juice of 1 lemon
Parchment paper
1/2 lb. Kasseri, Kefalotiri, or Manchego cheese, sliced thickly
The day before you plan to cook the lamb, wash and dry the leg. If you prefer a garlic taste, make small slits in the thickest parts of the leg and insert the cloves. Salt and pepper the leg and sprinkle generously with the herbs and spices. Mix the oil and lemon juice together and drizzle over the leg. Cover and marinate the leg for 3 hours or overnight.
Preheat oven to 325 degrees F. Spread out a sheet of parchment paper and rub it with oil. Take the marinated leg and lay it on the paper. Arrange the cheese slices over the top. Roll the paper around the meat and tie with a couple pieces of string, wrapping it tightly. Place in a shallow pan and bake for 1 to 2 hours, depending on the how well-done you prefer it. An
instant-read meat thermometer inserted into the thickest part of the meat registers 135°F for medium-well.
Anna Antonini, Mykonos, Greece
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Spanakopita (Spinach and Cheese Rolls)
Makes 5 rolls
4 packages frozen chopped spinach
4 large onions, minced
3 bunches scallions, thinly sliced, green tops included
2 cups butter, divided
1 cup minced fresh dill
1/2 cup minced fresh parsley
1/4 tsp. salt
1 pound Feta cheese, crumbled
1/2 cup freshly grated Parmesan cheese
8 eggs
1 package phyllo leaves, at room temperature
Defrost 4 packages of frozen chopped spinach, squeeze out the liquid, and reserve the spinach in a colander. In a large heavy skillet sauté the onions and scallions in 1/2 cup butter until the onions are golden. Add the dill and parsley and sauté the mixture for 5 minutes. Add the spinach and salt and sauté for 10 minutes. Transfer the mixture to a large bowl and let it cool. Stir in Feta and Parmesan cheeses. Beat the eggs until frothy and fold into the spinach mixture. Preheat the oven to 350 degrees F.
Melt the remaining butter. Keeping the remaining leaves covered with a tea towel, remove 5 phyllo leaves and brush them with melted butter. Stack the leaves and spread one-fifth of the spinach mixture along one of their long sides, about an inch from the edge. Fold in the bottom and sides of the leaves to form an envelope and roll up jelly-roll fashion. Place on a buttered baking sheet, seam side down. Continue to make rolls with the remaining phyllo and filling, 5 leaves at a time. Brush the tops with melted butter and bake the rolls for 1 hour, or until the pastry is brown and crisp. Cut the rolls into 2-inch slices and serve them warm or at room temperature.
Victoria Hicks
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Stuffed Tomatoes with Rice
Serves 6
The baked stuffed tomatoes are best prepared in advance and served at room temperature. Their own velvety sweetness is enriched with currants, nuts, and a whiff of mint.
12 medium-size tomatoes
4 Tbs. sugar
1 cup extra virgin olive oil, preferably Greek
1 large onion, finely chopped
1 cup uncooked long grain rice
1/2 cup dried currants
2 Tbs. pine nuts, lightly toasted
2 Tbs. chopped mint leaves
Salt and freshly ground black pepper
1/4 cup dry bread crumbs
Cut a thin slice off tops of tomatoes and reserve. Scoop out tomato pulp, chop, drain, and reserve. Sprinkle sugar inside tomatoes. Heat 1/4 cup olive oil in a 10-inch skillet. Add onion. Cook over medium heat until soft. Add rice, stir and cook a few minutes. Add currants, pine nuts, mint, half the tomato pulp, and 1/2 cup water. Season with salt and pepper. Cover and simmer 10 minutes.
Heat oven to 300 degrees F. Puree remaining tomato pulp and spread in bottom of shallow baking dish that will hold all the tomatoes without much room to spare. Spoon rice mixture into tomatoes; it will not fill them. Replace tops, spoon a tablespoon of oil over each tomato, and sprinkle with bread crumbs. Bake 1-1/2 hours. Allow to cool to room temperature before serving as an appetizer or with cold poached fish or grilled lamb.
Adapted from The Best Book of Greek Cookery by Chrissa Paradissis
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Shopping List
Dairy:
16 oz. Greek yogurt or 26 oz. plain whole milk yogurt
1 lb. butter
8 eggs
1 package phyllo leaves
Produce:
1 large cucumber
6 lemons
garlic
fresh dill
3 lbs. baking potatoes
fresh oregano
fresh parsley
fresh rosemary
fresh mint
5 large onions
3 bunches scallions
12 medium size tomatoes
Bin Bulk:
2 1/2 tsp. dried oregano
1/2 tsp. cumin
1 cup uncooked long grain rice
2 Tbs. pine nuts
Grocery:
16 oz. Extra virgin olive oil, preferably Greek
Crusty bread or Pita bread
1 can beef or chicken stock
Dried currants
Dry bread crumbs
Parchment paper
Meat Department:
1 medium boneless leg of lamb
Cheese Bin:
1/2 lb. Kasseri, Kefalotiri, or Manchego cheese
1 pound Feta cheese
4 oz. freshly grated Parmesan cheese
Frozen:
4 packages frozen chopped spinach
Beverage:
Wine, if desired